The Parish Church of St. Laurence, Godmersham: A History

THE PARISH CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM: A HISTORY TIM TATibN-BROWN Godmersham parish church is ·situated in an exceptionally fine position above the River Stour (115 ft. above sea-level) and below the rounded mass of Godmersha)Jl Downs in the very centre of the Diocese of Canterbury in east Kent. At this point the river is cutting its way through the North Downs, and on Godmersham Downs to the south-west the remains of the banks of a prehistoric and Roman field system1 are still to be seen. One third of a mile south of the church a Middle Bronze Age crouched bur)al was found in 1966,2 and Roman pottery and bricks have been found at several places close to the church,3 so there have been settl6ments here for a long time. Godmersham itself is first documented in a charter of the late Anglo-Saxon period, 4 but the name, which means 'Godmaer's settlement', must date from the early Anglo-Saxon period. However, it is not until the eleventh century that we start to know anything about the church, settlement and the surrounding estate, which was already owned by the Archbishop of Canterbury. In c. 1037 Archbishop Aethelnoth granted the manor to the monks of his Cathedral Priory,5 and we know that the boundary of this estate was to become 1 See note by R.F. Jessup in Antiq. Journ., xvii (1937), 122. 2 See note by J. Bradshaw in Arch. Cant., lxxxi (1966), !iii. 3 Noted by the late Dr S.G. Brade-Birks. 4 P.H. Sawyer, Anglo-Saxon Charters, an annotated List and Bibliography (1968), No. 1620 (dated 822) and No. 1434 (dated 824), but Professor N.P. Brooks (pers. comm.) teUs me that the former is an early eleventh-century forgery and though the latter is g _ enuine, the bounds of Godmersham given on the dorse were added, also probably rn the early eleventh century. 5 Sawyer, op. cit. supra, no. 1389. 45 TIM TATTON-BROWN the parish boundary in the early twelfth century.6 Remarkably, the present parish boundary is still almost identical and many of the places mentioned in the eleventh-century bounds, like Trimworth, Purwood, Winchcombe, Sole Street, Hurst and Soakham, are still on the modern map. THE ANGLO-SAXON CHURCH It was said in Domesday Book, compiled in the summer of 1086, that there was a church in the manor of 'Gomersham', and it is likely that the nave and western part of the chancel of the present church are this ecclesia, as it is called in the Latin. 7 Looking at the north-west outside corner of the nave it can be seen that the quoins are made of large flints, a few Roman bricks and some large lumps of a hard, reddy-brown, ferruginous sandstone (or carstone). This latter material comes from the Folkestone Beds, the nearest outcrop of which is five miles to the south-west, between Kennington and Ashford. As, following his appointment in 1070, Archbishop Lanfranc started to rebuild and restore many of his churches using Caen stone from Normandy, the fact that these quoins are not of Caen stone suggests that they may well be earlier and that the nave of the church dates to the late Anglo-Saxon period. Similar carstone quoins can also be seen half way along the upper parts of the north and south walls of the chancel on the outside. This shows that the western half of the chancel must be of a similar late Anglo-Saxon date. It is possible that the chancel originally ended in an apse, although this cannot be proved until the area beneath the chancel step is excavated. THE EARLY NORMAN CHURCH With the arrival of Lanfranc from Caen as the first Norman archbishop, the ecclesiastical organisation of the diocese was reformed and in a remarkable document mainly drawn up in the late eleventh century and now called 'Domesday Monachorum' (still in Canterbury Cathedral Library), we find several references to Godmersham and its church. 8 6 The early eleventh-century bounds are given on the dorse of Sawyer, op. cit. supra, no. 1434. 7 Domesday Book, 3, 13. 8 See D.C. Douglas, The Domesday Monachorum of Christ Church, Canterbury (1944). 46 Nave I I I I I I I L __ I i i i i i i i i i ! site of = 􀀄;. Mok l slr 􀀂 l i ( 􀀓 Chantrf Chapel 􀀔 I I c--- 1 I L_J \remains of CJ2th walls ttlf 1.865 L::::.=:.:. ) of S( Mary -􀀊 IL=: =-:=·.)L.=== .-:-:-f 0 􀀓 ___ 10:.........􀀔􀀕􀀖20 ___ 30􀀗 F££T 5 10 '1£TR£S 0 I Plan based on survey of 1864,prtor to restorations of 1865-6 - CMkJCllth 􀂅 c Early C12th 􀂆 CMidC13th 􀂇 c Mtd C14th-EarlyCl5th - 0 LateCl5th-EarlyC16th j:::::::::j C Late C17th-EarlyCJ8th Fig. 1. Phased plan of St. Laurence's Church, Godmersham. TIM TATTON-BROWN First, 'Godmaeresham' is listed as one of those churches which customarily paid 28d. at Easter for its chrism, i.e. the consecrated oil to be used in baptism. Twenty-eight pence was the standard amount for ordinary churches. Next, we are told that Godmersham paid 3s. 6d. 'Romscot'. This was part of the unique tax or yearly pension paid by England to the Pope in Rome. It was also called 'Peter's Pence' and was already a very old custom by the late eleventh century. It was usual for ld. to come from each free household for this tax, giving us about 42 houses in Godmersham in the late eleventh century. Finally, 'Domesday Monachorum' tells us that Godmersham was a manor of 8 sulungs (Kentish ploughlands) belonging to the archbishop's monks and that its revenues were used for their clothing. It was, therefore, already an important source of income for the Cathedral Priory and probably in the early twelfth century the monks decided to rebuild and enlarge the church. The most important survival from this time is the northern tower with its eastern apsidal chapel, but a new west doorway (blocked since 1865) and three new windows on the north side of the nave are also probably of the same date and all use Caen stone from Normandy for their quoins. The north tower, which at ground-floor level was originally a transept, was of three storeys with small chambers at first and second floor levels in which the bells were later hung. Most of the original early twelfth-century windows in the tower are still visible, though they were heavily repaired in the 1865-66 and earlier restorations; the top of the tower was heightened in brick and a new pyramidcal tiled roof was put on in 1866. (The odd chimneyflue that projects from the top stage of the tower on the west side was also put in at this time). In its original form the lower part of the north tower was a north chapel entered from the nave under a wide semi-circular arch (still visible in the present vestry). There is a similar arch on the east, which turns into a small hemidome groin-vault over the entrance to the small apsidal sanctuary. Only later, perhaps in the thirteenth century, was a small, seven foot high, wall with a door in it at the south end built across the west end of the sanctuary. The two single-splayed windows had been blocked while the northern one had been enlargeq at a later date. The Caen stone rere-arches of these windows are, however, original, and still have a painted vine-leaf decoration on them. The north door into the transept from the churchyard is also an original twelfth-century feature, but this, too, was heavily restored in 1865-66. Of the three twelfth-century windows on the north side of the nave, the two western ones have been restored and glazed. That on the east was half cut away by the Tudor three-light window. Its western half, 48 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM however, was seen behind the plaster and recorded in 1865. The tympanum over the west doorway is the one place where early Norman 'chip-carved' stone can still be seen and the diaper work visible here is typical of the type of work being done at Canterbury Cathedral in the first decades of the twelfth century. Brook Church, near Wye, is a magnificent example of a completely new church of this date, which still survives in its early twelfth-century form. It, too, was built by the monks of the Cathedral Priory. The 1865 filling of the west doorway now contains some fragments of the broken later twelfth-century font, including parts of a Purbeck marble shaft and base. The descriptive notes on the church, made after the 1865-66 restoration (see below), tell us that many fragments of this font were found built into the south wall of the nave, 'some portions could not be found' so it was 'rebuilt into the walls, the base being still visible in the work filling up the western doorway'. This font, which was probably originally situated just inside the western doorway on the south, is sketched in the above-mentioned notes. It had a square arcaded bowl on a central and four angle shafts; all of which sat on a square plinth. A very similar font still survives not far away at Westwell Church. By the end of the twelfth century it is also very likely that the church had acquired its south aisle. This was swept away in the early eighteenth century, but remains of hexagonal and circular columns were also found in 1865, which must have come from the arcade dividing the nave and south aisle. Alternating round and octagonal or hexagonal columns, which copy the new cathedral choir of the 1170s, are common in several late twelfth-century churches in east Kent. By far the most important twelfth-century piece in the church is the bas-relief of an archbishop on a large slab of Purbeck marble with a triangular top, that is now on the south wall of the chancel. It was placed here in 1933; formerly it was fixed to the outside north wall of Godmersham Court Lodge (which was demolished in 1955), where it had been since at least the eighteenth century. This slab almost certainly came originally from Canterbury Cathedral. Professor George Zamecki has suggested that it may be one end of the original tomb of St. Thomas Becket,9 which was in the cathedral crypt. This is by no means certain, however, and a date nearer to the middle of the twelfth century is perhaps as likely, in which case it could have come from the tomb of Archbishop Theobald (1139-62) who was Becket's 9 (Ed.) George Zarnecki, Courtauld Institute Illustration Archives: I, part 8, Canterbury Romanesque work (1978). It is illustrated here as 1/Bnl. 49 TIM TAITON-BROWN predecessor. The finely-cut figure of an archbishop, with his mitre and pallium and holding his crozier is flanked by two 'twisted barley sugar' columns with capitals above. Over the archbishop's head is carved part of a tiled and arcaded building, perhaps the cathedral. THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY In the thirteenth century records of the manor and parish of Godmersham start becoming common, and many charters, for example, mention the payment of rent to the Prior and Convent of Christ Church 'in the churchyard of St. Laurence'. In 1254, the (lay-)rector of Godmersham, Hugh de Mortimer, confirmed that the Prior and Convent's manor of Godmersham was exempt from the payment of small tithes 'with a saving to the right of his successors'. 10 During the thirteenth century the payment of tithes was often in dispute and the 'Great Tithes' in particular (those on corn, hay, wood, etc.) were a rich source of income for the rector of the parish. By the mid-thirteenth century we ha.ve the first mentions of the vicars of Godmersham. A man called Jeremias de Caxton was preferred to the living in 1241, 11 and we next hear of a man called John, the Chaplain of Godmersham, brother of William of Essex, who had just died in 1256. 12 He was perhaps succeeded by Alexander, son of Robert of Easthall, who is also called chaplain, as well as vicar or parson. In the 1260s-70s, he acquired many small plots of land in the manor (which later came to the Prior and Convent) and 41 of the original charters recording this (dated 1259-79) survive in the Cathedral Library.13 The later thirteenth century is also the time when the Prior and Convent decided that they should directly farm once again the demesne ( or 'home farm') of Godmersham. The demesne land, which is mainly the large pasture and arable area to the south and east of the church, had gradually been let out in the later twelfth century and it was only with the ·reforms of the later thirteenth century that the Priory once more got directly involved in the area. At this time the great stone Court Lodge, immediately north of the w This may have been the man who from 1269-75 was Archdeacon of Canterbury; John Le Neve, Fasti Ecclesiae Anglicanae 1066-1300, II (1971), 15. 11 See T.S. Frampton, 'Early Presentations to Kentish Benefices', Arch. CanL., XX (1893), 67. 12 Cathedral Archives and Library, Canterbury (C.A.L.C.), Chart. Ant. G15 and 016 as well as Reg. C. fo. 212v. 13 C.A.L.C., Chart Ant. 022 and G. 115 ff. 50 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM church, was built, 14 and also the chancel of the church was rebuilt and enlarged to its present form. The three lancet windows in the east wall have unusual capitals, columns and bases on their insides, which have similar profiles to those that were used in the Court Lodge. The fine trefoil􀁡headed sedile on the south side of the chancel, which has similar mouldings, must also date from this time. In rebuilding the chancel the monks were clearly making this part of the church, which they themselves used most, the 'modern' part of the building. Not long afterwards, the Priory rebuilt completely the chancel of nearby Cbartham Church, which they also owned, in a superb very modern style, and one can see there how fast Kentish tracery was evolving in the last three decades of the thirteenth century.15 By the beginning of the fourteenth century the population in the parish had probably reached a peak, which was certainly much greater than the population has ever been since. Documentary evidence suggests a large settlement at Bitting (almost all of which was in the parish) as well as Godmersham Street and the Ford. (These latter areas were finally almost entirely depopulated after 1840, when the walled gardens of Godmersham Park replaced many of the houses and a new village was built by Edward Knight near the new main road.) Thirteenth-century charters do, however, suggest many other small hamlets in the parish, at places like Eggerton, Winchcombe, Pope Street, Mosewell and Yallande (this latter has been cover􀁢d by Godmersham Deer Park since 1742) and the total population must have been well over 500. The majority of the adult members were expected to come to church, although the Court Lodge had its own private chapel (built by Prior Henry of Eastry in 1289) as did at least one other manor in the parish, Eggerton. THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY The Black Death of 1349 was almost certainly as much a traumatic event in Godmersham as it was everywhere else in Britain and Europe, and perhaps one-third to a half of the population of the parish perished in that terrible year. Afterwards, nothing was the same again, and many new things happened to the church, which reflected the changes in society. 14 The Court Lodge and the topography of the manor will be dealt with by the present writer in a future paper. 15 See S.E. Rigold in Arch. Journ., cxxvi (1970), 265-6. 51 TIM TATTON-BROWN On 20th June, 1363, King Edward III granted a licence to Hamo atte Halle and Gilbert de Relles ( or Hills) to endow and build a chantry chapel in honour of St. Mary in the church of Godmersham, where a chaplain would 'pray for their good estate whilst still alive, and for their souls after death'. On 3rd November in the same year16 'the Prior and Convent of Christ Church, Canterbury, as Lord of the manor of Challock, gave licence to Gilbert de Helles to give a yearly rent of26s. 8d. to Dom. John de Folkingham the Chaplain of the Perpetual Chantry of St. Mary in Godmersham church newly founded: also that Hamon atte Halle might give two messuages at the Ford in Godmersham, and a messuage, 124 acres of land, wood and pasture held from the Monastery at Cballock, to the same chaplain and his successors for ever, paying yearly to the Manor Court of Godmersham 3s. 4d.' This chantry chapel, which was probably finally demolished in the early eighteenth century, stood on the south side of the church at the east end of the south aisle. Here masses were said until 1548 for Gilbert Hills and Hamo atte Halle and their families by a succession of priests most of whose names we know. Gilbert Hills and Hamo atte Halle were the two most important people in the parish at the time. Gilbert Hills owned Eggerton Manor and according to an eighteenth-century record, a fine brass of him in full armour existed on a ledger stone, presumably in the chapel.17 The Hills family acquired Eggerton Manor in the mid-fourteenth century and remained there until it was sold in 1574. From wills we know that a Thomas Hills was buried in the chantry in 1426 and another Thomas Hills in 1497. Hamo atte Halle was probably at this time the serjeant of Godmersham Manor for the Cathedral Priory, and it is likely that he lived next door to the church in the Court Lodge (presumably why he is called 'atte Halle'). From the mid-1370s he leased the demesne from the Priory and he is a typical example of a prosperous local small Kentish landowner who had risen from the ranks of the peasants. A surviving indenture of 1375 shows him being granted by the priory all live and dead stock in the barn, stable, pig-house, etc., as well as the contents of the hall, chapel, kitchen and cart-house. 18 At this time the financial affairs of the Cathedral Priory were clearly not in good order, and it was not until the promotion of Thomas Chillenden as Prior in 1391 that matters were sorted out. First, and most important of all, was a fresh start on the rebuilding of 16 See Arthur Hussey, Kent Chantries (Kent Records XII, 1932- 6), 131. 17 C. Seymour, History of Kent (1776), 403. 18 The first in a bundle of leases for Godmersham manor in Canterbury Cathedral Archives. 52 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM the cathedral nave, which had been in abeyance for ten years since the Peasants' Revolt and the murder of Archbishop Simon of Sudbury in 1381. For five years about £500 a year was needed for this work, and the Prior initially got this money by acquiring a Bull from Pope Boniface IX to grant indulgences for seven years (and seven lents) to those who gave alms 'for the repair and conservation of the fabric of the cathedral church'. As this did not produce enough the Prior persuaded Archbishop Arundel in 1396 to give them the rectories of Godmersham and Westwell, and the deed of conveyance for this says that the 'prior and convent had laudably expended upwards of five thousand marks (£3,333) out of their common property upon the construction of the said nave and other necessary works about the church, and that six thousand marks (£4,000) would be too little to finish the work as begun, and others that must be done about the prostrate cloister and the Chapter House which is thought to be in a dangerous state.'19 This was after the earthquake of 1382 and the 'appropriation' of the two parish churches to the cathedral fabric fund meant that the profits of Godmersham and Westwell rectories (tithes, etc.) contributed much to the making of the magnificent perpendicular nave that is still one of the greatest architectural glories of England. The vicarage had been endowed by Archbishop Sudbury in 1380 and in 1396 the Priory were able to nominate John Cory as vicar (the previous vicar Walter Olney had !ust died).20 In 1400, the church was fully appropriated to the Priory, 1 and we are told that Archbishop Arundel 'ordained that in each year each monk should receive one noble out of the profits of the church of Godmersham'. It is, therefore, one of the ironies of history that connects Godmersham Church with Canterbury Cathedral, via a whole web of things (indulgences, appropriations, money to Benedictine monks) that 19 See C.E. Woodruff and W. Danks, Memorials of Canterbury Cathedral (1912), 167-8. 20 Godmersham was an 'exempt parish' in the Diocese of Canterbury (not finally abolished until 1837), and therefore did not come under the jurisdiction of the archdeacon. It was answerable to the archbishop alone, and incumbents were collated by the archbishop and exercised all ecclesiastical functions like granting marriage licences. See I.J. Churchill, Canterbury Administration (1933), Vol. I, 8􀂌94. The Revd T.S. Frampton compiled a list of all known vicars of Godmersham from the fourteenth century. Copies of this list are in the church and at Canterbury Cathedral Library. 21 Op. cit. supra, and C.E. Woodruff, 'A Monastic Chronicle lately discovered at Christ Church, Canterbury', Arch. Cant., xxix (1911), 70-5. 53 TIM TATION-BROWN only 150 years later were considered totally corrupt and were abolished. During the fourteenth century a lot of work was done by the monks at Godmersham Church, though as usual it was mostly in the chancel, 'their' part of the church. The fine large west window of the church, which was restored in 1865, must date to the middle years of the fourteenth century. The large transomed perpendicular window at the west end of the chancel (now looking into the organ chamber) is typical of the worJc of the period. Until the 1865 restoration when another lancet window was put back, there was another early fourteenth-century window on the south-east side of the chancel which is shown in earlier drawings of the church. The west window on the north side of the chancel must date from the mid-fourteenth century. Until the rebuilding work of the eighteenth century, there were eight remaining oak choir-stalls, on the ends of three of which were carved TPC Ann. Dom. 1409. This clearly refers to the Prior Thomas Chillenden, although the Reverend Samuel Pegge (Vicar, 1731-53) read it as PTG 1509, and therefore said it was Prior Thomas Goldstone. The former date is more likely to be correct although we cannot be certain as the stalls have long since disappeared. THE FIFfEENTH AND EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURIES The fine crown-post roof over the nave, which still survives, is probably early fifteenth-century. It contains, below the beams, unusual wall posts and braces, with trefoiled openings in the spandrels. During the final century before the Reformation, the church was probably filled with quite a lot of new stained glass, as well as with waII paintings. Unfortunately, none of this has survived, though the large three-light window on the north-side of the nave was perhaps put in during the last few decades prior to the Reformation. The interior space of the church was also increasingly being fiIIed with images, lights, etc., as well as with some seats for the more wealthy parishioners. In the earlier period there were no seats or pews in the church for ordinary people, except probably benches along the walls for the elderly and infirm. A will of Thomas Bealde of Godmersham (proved in 1535) ,22 requests that he be 'buried in the Isle (sic i.e. 22 For extracts from all the Godmersham wills, see A. Hussey, Testamenta Cantiana • (East Kent, 1907), 136-8. 54 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM nave) before the Roodloft next to my seat within the church'. Other wills mention lights (i.e. candles for images and shrines) to the Holy Cross (probably on the rood beam), the Cross of Pity, 'Holy Cross before the door', Our Lady (in addition to the Chantry Chapel of Our Lady), St. James, St. John, St. John the Baptist, St. Lawrence and St. Peter. So, for example, the will of Thomas Frogenhale, who died in 1448, requests his body to be buried in the churchyard of St. Laurence of Godmersham and he leaves 12d. each to the lights of the Holy Cross, Our Lady, St. John and St. Peter, as well as 20s. to the reparation of the bell-tower of the church. This also tells us that there were bells in the tower by this time, and it is just possible that the timber bell-frame in the upper part of the tower (now holding the 1677 bells) dates from this time.2 There may also have been a steeple put on top of the tower in the Late Medieval period.24 A will of a vicar, Matthew Smyth, who died in 1509, directs that he be buried in the chancel before the image of St. Lawrence. A large ledger stone in the chancel with brass indents on it 􀁠overed up since 1865) may well mark the position of Smyth's grave. Some wills even leave bushels of barley, rather than money, to the lights. Probably the most important thing to be built in the church in the later fifteenth century was the rood loft. This would have been a gallery on a wooden screen, which divided the nave from the chancel. Parts of the screen were found re-used in the west gallery in 1865. At the front of the rood loft was a great beam with a carving of Christ on the Cross flanked by figures of the Blessed Virgin Mary and St. John. To get up into the rood loft a spiral stair was built into the wall of the north-east corner of the nave and although this is now blocked, doorways can still be seen at the top and bottom of the stair, behind the modern pulpit. At this time also the north chapel was perhaps blocked off and turned into a vestry and place for the bell ringers. In 1514, Robert Baseley left 6s. 8d. towards the gilding of the rood loft and 6s. 8d. towards 'the making of the arch in Our Lady's chancel' (presumably a new stone arch over the entrance to the Chantry chapel on the south). William Geffrey, a chaplain of this chantry, who died in 1516, also gave 6s. 8d. to the reparation of the parish church. He directed in his will (proved 18th February, 1517) that his 23 This timber-frame was removed in 1986 and is now being cleaned and drawn by the Canterbury Archaeological Trust. 24 E. Hasted, The History and Topographical Survey of the County of Kent (2nd. edition) VII, 329. 25 Recorded and sketched by Rev. W. Field in the 1860s. See below. 55 TIM TATTON-BROWN body 'be buried in the Chapel of St. Mary in the south part' ( of the parish church) and the brass inscription from his ledger stone actually survives; since 1906 it has been on the wall inside the sedile on a hinge. It records in Latin 'Here lies Dominus [courtesy title for a priest] William Geffrey, formerly Chantry Priest in this church who died 20th May 1516'. On the back, showing that it is a re-used brass, is another inscription saying 'Here lie William Attilburgh generosus [i.e. gentleman] and Margaret his wife, which William died 24th April 1471'. There is also an account in a Stowe Manuscript (in the British Library) of all the stock of money and household goods belonging to the chantry and handed over to Geffrey's successor as chaplain, John Joye on 11th May, 1519, by the churchwardens, John Poope and John Lulle.26 One of the last Godmersham wills made before the Reformation, of Guy Coke in 1534, left 'a cloth to hang before the high altar'. Guy Coke and many others were buried in the churchyard, and it is probably from this time in England that most of the earliest gravestones date. In the east Kent area quite a large number survive, and they are usually just very simple, uninscribed discoid stones, with a cross carved on them and having a small shaft. One such stone actually survives on the north-east side of the path leading from the modern porch to the main road, though it is unlikely to be in situ. A fragment of another was found built into the eighteenth century extension to the Court Lodge and a third can be seen re-used in the gable top of the shed on the north side of the churchyard.27 The churchyard was also used ( as was the church itself) for processions during the main festivals and one must imagine the churchyard in the medieval period as a meeting place (the tenants paid their rent here in the thirteenth century) which was perhaps also used for fairs. The principal ancient fair, which was held on the feast day of St. Laurence the Martyr, 10th August, was officially sanctioned by King Edward I in 1279, and in 1364 Edward III granted the Cathedral Priory an additional annual fair at Godmersham on the Thursday and Friday of Whitsun week. These would have been the main spring and summer holidays in the parish. Godmersham also had a weekly medieval market (held on a Tuesday), but this almost certainly took place north of the church in the centre of the village (called Godmersham Street) near the ford. Until the removal of the 26 B.L. Stowe 854, fo. 10. 27 See Ben Stocker, 'Medieval Grave Markers in Kent', in Church Monuments, Vol. I, part 2 (1986), 106-14. 56 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM cottages in the 1840s, there was a 'middle row' of buildings that were probably built on the market place site in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries (see Fig. 2). The position of this middle row is still marked by the kink in the road, where the mid-nineteenth century kitchen garden walls of Godmersham Park stick out into the road. There is an amusing record in the Canterbury Consistory Court of 15th September, 1473, where one Richard Herford of Chilham is accused of saying publicly in foro publico apud Godmersham (the market place) that all officials of the Canterbury Consistory were robbers and bribers.28 This reflects the poor reputation of the late medieval court officials, which we know best from the Summoner in Chaucer's 'Canterbury Tales'. In 1540, Canterbury Cathedral.Priory was dissolved by Henry VIII and replaced the following year by the 'New Foundation' (the Dean and Chapter). It was not until five years later in 1546, however, that Henry VIII granted Godmersham manor, rectory and the advowson of the vicarage to the Dean and Chapter. THE REFORMATION The Reformation perhaps officially began in 1534, when Parliament's Act of Supremacy declared Henry VIII 'supreme head of the English Church on earth'. But Henry was basically Catholic in taste, and it was probably not until the accession of the boy king, Edward VI, in 1547 that a parish church like Godmersham felt the full blast of the Protestant Reformation. With a weak king, his lay and ecclesiastical advisers took over the immediate reforming of the church, so that Edward VI's government ordered that from Easter 1548 the communion was to be available to the laity in bread and wine, instead of bread only. Throughout that year Archbishop Cranmer was working on his proposed English Service Book, and the First Prayer Book was approved by Parliament in January 1549 and made mandatory for use throughout England from Whit Sunday. This Prayer Book was in English for the first time and this must have been an amazing change for most of the parishioners, even though lessons had first been read in English the previous year. In 1548 also all stone altars had to be replaced by wooden tables and all images that were 'superstitiously abused' had to be destroyed, all pictures and paintings of 'feigned miracles' that were in walls, glass 28 Quoted in B.L. Woodcock, Medieval Ecclesiastical Courts in the Diocese of Canterbury (1952), 49, note 2. 57 TIM TATTON-BROWN windows or elsewhere in churches were ordered to be 'utterly destroyed' and all processions in churches and churchyards were forbidden. In Godmersham we have some idea of what was happening from depositions of witnesses taken before the Archbishop's Commissary General, Robert Collens, on 29th May, 1548, and 14th October, 1550.29 At the former date the curate of Godmersham said 'that there standeth a whole table of ymages, not defaced, taken down from the high aulter', while in 1550 Thomas Worceter, a parishioner of Challock, deposed that Sir John Cheard, vicar of Godmersham and Challock (the latter remained a chapel of ease to Godmersham until 1870) did 'upon St. George's day last past affirm that the communion ministered as yet of any curate was and is of none effect'; also that 'those ministers who did minister the Communion to their parishioners (no other commandment being as yet therefor) be knaves and traitors.' John Cheard was clearly more Catholic than Protestant in his tastes and he also got into trouble in other ways, such as not preaching many sermons, or saying in the pulpit 'that no layman ought to dispute, teach or hold opinion in the Gospel except a Master of Arts, or a spiritual man admitted by the ordinary'. Another major change at Godmersham church in 1548 was the dissolution of the Chantry. The last Chantry Priest, William Brigges, who had taken up his job on 5th July, 1538, was pensioned off and given £5 a year.30 Brigges is described in an enquiry of 1548 as: 'of the age of 63 years indifferently lerned and of honest conversacon; and bath nothinge otherwise to mayntayn his lyvinge withall besides the revenues of the Chauntrye'. This document goes on to say that 'there is not any vicar there endowed, other than the vicar of the parishe churche there, for that the same Chauntrye ys no parishe churche, not yet that any parishe churche is ther unto appropriate. And ther is 182 house-linge people within the same parishe' (a useful early population figure). 'There hath not bene any gramar scole kept, preacher maynteyned or poore people relevid by the same chauntrye.' The last sentence was included because these types of foundations were considered useful and were not dissolved. Unfortunately, Godmersham had no school or poor-house, though a poor-house was first built only just over half a century later and endowed in the wills of various richer people in the parish (Martin Maye in 1614, Thomas Scott in 1635 and Thomas Carkeridge in 29 See C.E. Woodruff, 'Extracts from original Documents illustrating the Progress of the Reformation in Kent', Arch. Cant., xxxi (1915), 96, 100 and 102. 30 Op. cit. supra, (note 16), 132-3. 58 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM 1640).31 Only apparently in the mid-eighteenth century was a 'reading and writing' school for twenty children started, when Thomas Knight rebuilt the almshouses in Godmersham Street and created a schoolroom there. The final act of Edward VI's reign was the official removal from all cathedrals and parish churches of all ornaments and vestments beyond the minimum laid down by the Second Prayer Book of 1552. Inventories were made for all churches and that for Godmersham was done on 28th November, 1552, by James Leverard, the vicar, and Thomas Chapman and Robert Gylwyn, churchwardens. It reads: 'Imprimis a blew vestmente braunched with a coope, a whyte vestemente with a cope of damaske brawnched, a sute of vestements with blacke crosses of sylke lackynge stoles and phanells, a cope of sylke, a clothe of red silke to beare over the sacrament, a clothe of whyte fustyan braunched to hange before the awlter, seven towells, two awlter clothes, fower surplessys, two corporas casys with the clothes, two chalessys parcell gylte, a latyn basyn, one shete, one coverlett, two quoosshens, two hande bells, four bellys in the steple, and olde kettyle of brasse, and one panne and three crewetts. '32 Despite the odd spellings, like 'quoosshens' for cushions, it is clear from the list that the church still possessed quite a few fine items. Some of these would probably have been disposed of immediately; others would have survived for a few years more because of the death of Edward VI in 1553 and the accession of the Catholic Queen Mary. Appended to the above list is the account of 1551 of Mr George Hyllys (of Eggerton), then churchwarden. It reads: For 3 vestments and 3 copys solde the sume of 40s. Item payde to a paynter to peynt the roode loft and the wall quere (where) the awter stoode in the chapeU of ow􀂢e Lady of the Chantry 25s. Item hys bodyng 10s. Item payde for a gogyn for the thyrde beell 4s. Item for washeying of the church geer per ann. 2s. Item payd for makyng of the church gaat 10d. hem payd for a bawdryke 12d. Item for meet and drynke 2d. Item payd for broods ld. (approved by Thomas Chapman, the elder). This list shows what had already been disposed of (three vestments and copes) and how much had been spent to make good after all the destruction of the previous few years. The rood loft and screen had 31 Hasted, op. cit. supra (note 24), 327-8 where the Godmersham charities are fully described. 32 The inventory was first published in Arch. Cant., viii (1872), 157-8. 59 TIM TATTON-BROWN survived (and presumably did so until the early eighteenth century) though the figures of Christ and Mary and John had obviously gone. The painting mentioned is presumably whitewashing. Of particular interest in the list are the four belJs in the steeple (i.e. tower) one of which, the third, had had 4s. spent on it for a 'gogyn' (probably the mechanism for making it sway). The two 'hande' bells which were probably used during earlier 'catholic' services, were perhaps those found in the churchyard during the 1865-66 restorations. l3 During the short reign of Queen Mary (1553-58), an attempt was made to halt and reverse the Reformation and of particular interest to us for understanding what was happening in Godmersham are the Returns for the Visitation made by Archdeacon Nicholas Harpsfield to the Diocese on behalf of Archbishop Pole. 34 The Visitation to Godmersham took place on Friday 24th September, 1557, and five other churches (Boughton-under-Blean, Chartham, Chilham, Molash and Challock) were also visited that day. The vicar at this time was Thomas Thomson, who had become vicar earlier in the year, after the death of James Leverard (vicar for the 1552 inventory). Thomson resigned in 1561 and was succeeded by William Kyms. 35 There were also two new churchwardens, William White and Thomas Watson, and most of the injunctions and repairs were ordered to be carried out by 1st November, the rest by 'mydsomer' (1558). Only a few months later both the Queen and the Archbishop were dead. Harpsfield's orders for Godmersham were: 'Ffirst yt is cornmanndid to set upp a syde aultare with fourniture, one fronnte for the alter above of painted clothe for the woorkingedaies and 2 fronntes of say ffor the holydaies a heare clouthe, an altare clothe, 2 wipinge tow ells a corporas and a case a canapies (sic) convenyent statues for yt, a lanterne, a crosee of copper with the image of Christe a surples a bason and an ewer, to painte the roode Mary and John and the patrone, a vele, a hande bell, to kepe the fonnte vnder locke and key and to repair the churche in necessarie reparations bye All Saintes, and the reste bye mydsomer and to repaire the chancel! which is in decaye.' l34J Recorded by the Rev. W. Field in the 1860s, see below. Published in the Catholic Record Society, xiv (1950), 152-3. 35 After the accession of Queen Elizabeth, Thompson was accused of sorcery and incantations and excommunicated for a time. See A.J. Willis, Church life in Ker/I (1975), 13. 60 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM One wonders how much of this was carried out, and if it was done, how quickly it was swept away in the following reign when once again England returned to Protestantism. Less seems to be recorded of Godmersham church in the reign of Elizabeth I and one imagines that a sort of stability was found after so many changes in such a short space of time.36 Archbishop Matthew Parker's visitation in 1573 has little to record for Godmersham except that 'they have not theire ordinary Sermons', and 'Edwarde Wells, Willms Chapman do Refuse to pay the money to the poore web they are ceassed at'. The parishioners of Challock complained that the vicar dwells in Godmersham and because of 'the great distance between the two parishes' they need their own curate as they had had previously, who 'dwelt amongeste them'. 37 By this time also all parishes were expected to have their own registers of christenings, marriages and burials. Regrettably, Godmersham's registers only survive from 25th March, 1600, although transcripts in the Diocesan Registry begin in 1564. THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY This century, too, must have seen a great deal of change at the church and, towards the end of the century, repair and renewal. The records for this period have been less easy to find for Godmersham, and more research will be required to give a fuller picture of the church at this time. The two principal families in the parish throughout the century were the Brodnaxes of Ford Place (now covered by Godmersham Park, the great house) and the Scotts of Eggerton. The former family had come up from Hythe and bought the manor of Ford and Yallande in the late sixteenth century,38 while the Scotts of Scot's Hall, Smeeth, had bought the manor of Eggerton for £1,000 in 1574.39 Both families had almost certainly rebuilt their seats around 1600, but no trace of either house remains above ground today. The Brodnaxes also constructed a burial vault in the church, in the nave near the door into the tower, at this time and ledgers (now gone) to Thomas 36 But see previous note. 37 See Arch. Cant., xxix (1911), 281. 38 Hasted, op. cit. supra (note 24), vii, 323. 39 See notes by S.G. Brade-Birks in the Church Magazine of Crundale and Godmersham (October 1961), copy in Box No. R4 (803 CRU) at the Beaney Institute (Reference Library), Canterbury. 61 TIM TATTON-BROWN Brodnax (d. 1602) and William Brodnax (d. 1609) are recorded. The Scotts probably continued to use the chantry chapel. The central area of the parish was still the demesne manor belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury and they let it to a succession of tenants (Chapmans and Smiths in the first half of the seventeenth century and then the Austens from 1669). The vicars of Godmersham, who were usually appointed by the archbishop, were reasonably well off and well educated (more than half of them had degrees at Oxford or Cambridge).40 One of them, Edwai;d Wilde (Vicar of Godmersham, 1623-24) was already a Six Preacher at the Cathedral when he came to the parish. Early in the century a new vicarage had probably been built just down the road from the church and this still survives (though enlarged in the nineteenth century) with nearly an acre of ground with it ( the vicar also leased the field called 'Lovetown' and the meadow on an island in the Stour below the house). In 1649, a survey of the parsonage was carried out (now in the Gough Manuscripts in the Bodleian Library)41 and it was valued at £120 per annum. The vicar, Thomas Hull, inducted in 1624, was perhaps too much a loyalist and Laudian, and seems to have been replaced at about this time by the more Presbyterian John Richards, foJlowed by Robert Ferguson, who in turn was ejected in 1660, so that Thomas Hull could return. The Prayer Book was given up in 1646, but no doubt quickly replaced at Godmersham after 1660; there are no real records of dissent in the parish at this time or later. (No non-conformist chapels have ever been built in the parish, although a Quaker burial ground existed at Bilting in c. 1703). The population of the parish may have increased slightly during the earlier part of the century as 243 people are recorded as having received communion in 164042 as opposed to 220 in 1557. 43 It is also likely that many of the ordinary houses in the parish were rebuilt at this time and quite a few of these houses survive to this day at Bilting. After a period of reorganisation in the 1660s (there were no less than four vicars between the years 1660 and 1664) attention was turned to the state of the fabric of the church. In 1671, major repairs were carried out and an interesting petition of this year to the Archbishop's Consistory Court by the parishioners asks that they may be allowed to make use of the 'Great Hall in the parsonage 40 See list of vicars (note 20 above). 41 Bodleian Library, MS. Gough Kent 25. 42 Hasted, op. cil. supra (note 24), vii, 331. 43 Op. cil. supra (note 34). 62 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM house (near our church) belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Christ Church, Canterbury, by reason of the great repairs of our church which are now going about, for the publick service of God until the repairs are finished'. 44 This clearly shows that they wanted to use the great hall of the Court Lodge as a temporary church; the petition is signed by, among others, William Brodnax (of Ford), Nicholas Knight, Michael Hills (Churchwarden), Thomas Pisinge (Churchwarden) Simon Otway (who died in 1708, aged 83, and was buried under the communion table), Richard Austen ( the Court Lodge tenant of the Dean and Chapter) and William Carter (probably of Winchcombe ). It is also recorded that at about this time Robert Juce, who lived with Thomas Scott at Eggerton, repaired the chancel 'with tyle and glass'.45 He was afterwards buried there. This perhaps refers to the old chantry chapel on the south, which seems to have continued as the chapel for Eggerton. Because of the extensive later restorations and alterations, no obvious traces of the repairs of the 1670s can be seen. Fifteen years later, however, (in 1686), a faculty was granted for recasting four bells46 and inside the upper part of the bell-tower can still be seen five bells all inscribed 'Christopher Hodson made me 1687'. The fifth bell also adds 'Thomas Wanstall, Edward Bilting C. wardens'.47 It is clear, therefore, that the four late medieval bells were recast and rehung in their old frame and that a fifth bell was then cast which was hung in a new 'A-frame' above the earlier frame. All of this frame still survives, though the fittings (which were replaced in the nineteenth century) are in very poor condition and the bells have not been rung since before the last war. 48 The recasting by Christopher Hodson no doubt took place in the churchyard and the bells must have been moved in and out through the upper Norman windows of the tower, which were enlarged and then rebuilt in brick. A memorial to one of the vicars of this period, Richard Mun (1675-82), who was buried in the chancel, still survives. It was moved from the chancel south wall to the north-east side of the nave in 1865. In the usual flowery language of the time, he is described as: 44 See C.E. Woodruff, 'The records of the Courts of the Archdeaconry and Consistory of Canterbury', Arch. Cant., xii (1929), 102-3. 45 Op. cit. supra (note 39), Church Magazine of July 1 955. 46 Op. cit. supra (note 44), 92. 47 See J.L. Stah.lschmidt, The Church Bells of Kent (1887), 289- 90. 48 This frame was removed in 1986 and replaced by a new steel frame. The bells were rung again, after restoration at the Whitechapel Bell Foundry, in 1987. 63 TIM TATTON-BROWN 'orthodox in his judgment, excellently principled exemplary to all for his pietie towards God his loyaltie to his king, his charritie to ye poore his faithfullness to his friend and curteous behaviour to all, but especially his conjugal affections to his beloved wife he was generally beloved of all, but especially ye ientry, which his sweet carriage & Learned discourse endeared to him even almost beyond beliefe, and therfore his death was ye more lamented, but by none more than his dear wife now his mournfull widow, at whose charge this monument was erected for ye preservations of his memorie which ought never to be forgotten.' The biggest change in the topography of Godmersham at this time came at the very end of the century, when the Dean and Chapter's fulling mill near the ford was demolished49 (there have been no mills in the parish since, except for the recent saw mill in Eggringe Wood) and replaced in 1698 by the present stone bridge, on the north side of which can still just be made out the proud inscription recording that it was built 'by the Parish and NOT by the County - Thomas Carter & Richard Austen SURWEIGHERS'. At the end of the eighteenth century it was extended with other brick arches to let flood water on the meadows escape more quickly. THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY In 1727, Thomas Brodnax of Ford Place inherited a fortune from Sir Thomas May and by a private Act of Parliament changed his name to May. Eleven years later he reacquired a second fortune from Mrs Elizabeth Knight and again changed his name, by another Act, to Knight. As a result of this he was able to completely rebuild his seat, Ford Place, in 1732, and ten years later was able to enclose a large new deer park around the house.50 This was initially called Ford Park, but by the later eighteenth century it was renamed Godmersham Park. Just before his death in 1781, Thomas Knight added two new wings to the house (the eastern one containing the library) as well as to the south, fine gardens and 'pleasure grounds' in an area called Bentye. Despite later alterations the main parts of this great house still survive. 49 See Arch. Cant., xxix (1911), 214, quoting Lambeth Palace Library MS. 952 fo. 46. 50 Hasted, op. cit. supra (note 24), vii, 323-5. 64 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM Just before all of this, probably in the 1720s, the south side of Godmersham Church was completely rebuilt in brick (the large buttresses to the chancel were also perhaps added at this time). The ruinous south aisle was removed and to the east the old chantry chapel of 1363 (which had remained the family chapel for Eggerton) was pulled down. Two of the wall monuments in this area, to a vicar, James Christmas (d. 27th January, 1713) and to Thomas Carter of Bilting (d. 29th September, 1707), which had only fairly recently been erected, were moved to the new south wall of the church. They still survive, having been moved again in 1865. The reason for this rebuilding was clearly the growing affluence of the two great houses in the parish ('Great Eggerton' and Ford Place) and the need for both to have large private family pews. 50a Nineteenth-century drawings and watercolours (made before 1865) show that the two new pews were raised on burial vaults, about four feet above the nave floor, and were entered by two separate flights of five steps. On the south wall both pews, which were side by side, had gable ends with large round-headed windows in them (there were two similar roundheaded windows in the rebuilt south wall of the nave to the west). The Ford Park pew, on the west, had a 'handsome collection of painted glass', as it is described in 1793, 'forming a wide border to the window which enlightens the pew'. It was, however, 'placed in a most injudicious manner, several of the quarterings of the coat of arms, etc. being inverted; and others quartered with families between which there is no affinity'. 51 Outside this pew on the west another vault was added by Thomas Knight and in it he was buried in 1780, as well as earlier his wife Jane (d. 1765) and daughter Anne (d. 1773) and finally his son Thomas in 1794. A fine monument to this Thomas and Catherine, his wife (d. 1812), by Shout can still be seen on the south aisle wall. A fireplace and chimney were also subsequently added on the west side of this pew. The 'Great Eggerton' pew was mainly occupied by the Gotts in the earlier eighteenth century: Maximilian Gott (d. 1735) and his spinster sisters Mary (d. 1768) and Sarah (d. 1772) were buried here and three of their hatchments used to hang nearby. After a complicated inheritance suit in Chancery in 1774 (shades of Dickens's Bleak House) the whole estate was bought by Thomas Knight the younger, and his sister Jane lived there. so, I am grateful to Mr Nigel Yates for pointing out to me that Minstead church (Hants.) has 'parlour pews', still surviving, very similar to those at Godmersham. 51 Z. Cozens, A Tour through the Isle of Thanet and some other Parts of East Kent (1793), 246. However, Philip Parsons in his Monuments and painted Glass of upwards of JOO Churches (1794) states that it was a pictorial window, not a heraldic one. 65 TIM TATTON-BROWN Perhaps the most famous vicar of this period was Samuel Pegge, M.A., F.S.A., (installed 1731, resigned 1753). After he died in 1796 some of his papers went to the Bodleian Library. 52 (1-{owever, his fair copy and continuation of the early eighteenth-century parish registers are in the Cathedral Library at Canterbury). Several papers by this learned antiquary can also be found in the Gentlemen's Magazine, and it is in the issue of May 1789 that he states that 'the chancel of Godmersham church had been newly dressed up and modernized when he was inducted into the vicarage' (i.e. nearly sixty years before in 1731). This may have been when the oak boards behind the altar were erected, on which were written in gold letters the Ten Commandments (in the centre) and the Creed and Lord's Prayer. The 'mean' oak altar table and surrounding rails also perhaps date from the same time. It is possible, however, that all this was done earlier in the restoration of 1671, and these two alternative periods also apply to the dating of the west gallery on which were erected the Royal Arms. On the walls of the nave there were also suspended several texts from scripture, done on framed canvas. At the bottom of each was a grotesque face, which was described as 'hideous' in 1865, when all of this was swept away. THE CHURCH IN JANE AUSTEN'S TIME Thomas Knight the younger, who was childless, inherited the estate of Godmersham Park in 1781 and not long after this he adopted Jane Austen's brother (who had been born in 1768). When Thomas died in 1794, his widow Catherine moved to her house at Whitefriars in Canterbury, leaving Edward and his new wife Elizabeth (the daughter of Sir Brook Bridges of Goodnestone Park) in possession of the house. When she died in 1812, Edward was left everything and changed his name to Knight. Between the years 1805 and 1813, Jane Austen stayed quite often at Godmersham Park, and during this time she must have attended Godmersham Church and sat in the family pew. For most of this period Francis Whitfield was vicar (1778-1811) and it was he who buried Edward's young wife on 17th October, 1808, after she had died in childbirth. Whitfield's successor as vicar was Joseph Godfrey Sherer, and Jane Austen visited Mrs Sherer at the vicarage on the morning of 23rd September, 1813; in a letter she wrote: 'I like Mr S. very much'.53 He died in 1823 and was buried in 52 Bodleian Library, MS. Add. C.243, p. 625 ff. 53 See R.W. Chapman's edition of Jane Austen's letters (1932), numbers 45, 51-4, 84-91, which were all written from Godmersham. They are quoted in S.G. BradeBi 􀁘ks, Jane Austen and Godmersham (1938). 66 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM Fig. 2. Part of a plan of the parish of Godmersham made for Edward Knight in 1815. The church is number 335. the chancel and a monument to him can be seen under the window near the organ. The church today looks very different from the church of Jane Austen's time, because of the large-scale changes of 1865-66. However, the Reverend Walter Field, M.A., F.S.A., vicar 1864-76, made detailed notes and sketches of the church just before the alterations, and these, together with other drawings and plans. do give us a ve',?.; good idea of what the early nineteenth-century church looked like. 4 54 The Rev. W. Field's notes and sketches occupy 5'h pages in the Parish Register of 1730--1812. This is now in Canterbury Cathedral Archives UJ/117/5/1. I am grateful to Miss A.M. OakJey for access to this document and for permission to publish the sketches here. 67 TIM TATTON-BROWN Fig. 3. Part of the Ordnance Survey First Edition 1:2500 map of Godmersham (1874). Note the School and Post Office which were demolished not long afterwards. 68 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM Let us therefore try to reconstruct what Jane Austen would have seen on a visit to the church in the years 1805-13. To get to the church Jane could have walked down to the old village near the bridge and then along the main road (now lane) to the church (Fig. 2.) The village, which contained the school and poor-house (in a middle row in the old market place) was almost entirely removed to the new site further to the east in the 1840s by Edward, to allow him to expand his walled gardens and build just two 'modern' brick houses instead. Alternatively, Jane could have walked :lue south from the great house, through the gardens and pleasure grounds, to Bentigh (she mentions 'sauntering along Bentigh' in a letter of 1808) and then across the road near the large medieval barn to the churchyard. These pleasure grounds at Bentigh, which can be seen along with the old village on the 1815 plan, were only later in the nineteenth century completely enclosed by a brick wall and given a fine avenue of lime trees, a summer house, etc., and renamed 'The Wilderness'. The little round-headed doors in the wall were also built later, but there were earlier gates here, including probably one to the vicarage. It seems likely, as several people have suggested, that this vicarage was the model for Mr Collins's 'humble abode' in Pride and Prejudice which was 'separated only by a lane from Rosings Park, her ladyship's residence'. The 'lane' at this time was, however, still the main road from Chilham to Ashford and must often have had coaches, landaus, 'chairs' and horsemen riding down it as well as the 'lower orders' of people walking between Canterbury and Ashford. On reaching the churchyard, which at this time only had a fence round it, Jane would have taken a path that led straight to the west door (now blocked) outside which was a tiny brick porch. A watercolour of the church from the north-west by H. Petrie, done in 1808,55 shows very clearly the view Jane would have seen as she approached the church. Between the outside and the floor of the nave one descended nine steps (three in the porch) which were 'specially inconvenient in case of funerals' as the vicar wrote in 1855 'and on some occasions of heavy rain, the water has so rushed in that the church has been flooded'. On entering the square west door (below the Norman arch) Jane would have seen on her right first the 'coal closet' and then the steps to the gallery (which was above her head) and the rough brick and plaster front. In front were four columns (two against the north and south walls) supporting the gallery. On the ss There is a photograph of this drawing in both the parish records and the Kent Archaeological Society's library at Maidstone (Plate I). 69 1/ I' ! I I I : I Y.udt. ! 1 I -- L...:.:.._ ·---·--- ll"'f'r.,, """' ,..,.,.,(......a..J, f.. __ .t ___ .(_• __ ...... t_· __ ...r __ ---!(':r,􀀞. Fig. 4. Plan of the Goclmersbam church in 1864, just before the large scale restorations. Note the box pews, pulpit and reading desk, etc. THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM gallery front were the royal arms and the back of the gallery covered the lower part of the west window (seen blocked in the Petrie watercolour). Inside the nave of the church were large high box-pews on either side of a central aisle; the vicar called them 'very inconvenient and unsightly' in 1865 and the floors, which were much lower than the present floors, were 'composed of memorial slabs and bricks and were very uneven and dilapidated'. The vicar also states 'although the walls of the church were periodically whitewashed, they were in several parts green with damp. The floors were also 'lery damp and the boards of the seats in many places decayed. This was partly due to the accumulation of earth around the church and on the south the soil was in parts four feet above the level of the floor of the church'. Although things could not have been this bad half a century earlier in Jane Austen's time, it was then still about eighty years since the last rebuilding of the early eighteenth century. Two-thirds of the way along the north side of the nave was the pulpit of 'painted deal with a sounding board over it of inlaid wood'. Below this was the vicar's 'prayer desk' and below this again the parish clerk's pew. All of these. looked south to the two large family pews for the great houses of the·· parish. Jane would have walked along the aisle and on reaching the 'tripple decker pew' turned right up the five steps (with rails on either side) to the western of these two family pews, which would have afforded a good view over the heads of the other parishioners. At this time the late medieval door into the vestry under the tower was blocked up and the vicar entered the church from the vestry through a low wooden doorway cut through the south side of the apse into the west end of the chancel. The north door into the chancel from the churchyard was as yet unblocked and this, too, had a mean little brick porch outside it. In the western part of the chancel the 1864 plan shows a harmonium on the north (probably not there in Jane's time) and the children's moveable forms on the south; all the medieval stalls had gone (Fig. 4). Two steps-led up to the sanctuary with its 'mean' oak altar table surrounded by oak rails and backed by the boards mentioned above. All of this would have been out of sight to Jane once she had entered her pew, and one should not forget that at this time the chancel was a relatively unimportant area, the parson's pew and the pulpit were the focus of the church. On leaving the church, if Jane had turned left outside the west door, she could have followed the path round the south side of the church and seen the outside of the Knight family vault (to the west of the family pew), which was surrounded by an iron railing. Here Edward's adoptive father, the last of the Brodnax family, was buried in 1794 in the vault constructed by his father for his family in the 71 ; · -􀀄t 􀀄 r,,. ·􀀄 '41 - . , Fig. 5. Sketch of the west end of the nave in c. 1865, showing the gallery with the Royal Arms on it. To the left are sketches of the font and a window in the south wall of the nave. "';, 􀁓----:-: ___ --..:.._ .... t . --,.-. -·--... •,.. -- --.- 􀀈 . .,. .. 􀀉"'-.... 􀀐tm]'(􀀑f 􀀃-􀀄i c;;,.:;. ------ g! ':;:. !. <.'J/;,y--Jjl 􀀒 -􀀃 -----==-=---􀀔-- - 􀀋 '-- L'-",_., i.,- --􀀄 •.-;-· 􀀎 l􀀃r " U--._􀀍 (j l ,· Fig. 6. Sketch of the two family pews on the south side of the church in c. 1865. All the monuments shown here can still be seen in new positions in the present church. The hatchments have gone. g 􀀌 g '?l􀀍 􀀏 􀀎 z fri 􀀓 􀀓 TIM TATTON-BROWN -:, __ ---===----- Fig. 7. Sketch of the north side of the chancel in c. 1865. Note the stove between the two doorways and the 'children's moveable forms'. mid-eighteenth century. Tp.e last person to be buried in the vault, which is now under the modern south aisle, was probably Catherine Knight in 1812. On 23rd September, 1813, Jane wrote a letter to her sister Cassandra, mentioning a visit to the church by Charles and Wyndham Knatchbull (Catherine's brothers) and Edward Knight to discuss her memorial inscription, which was soon after added to Thomas Knight's monument. 56 This fine monument by Shout of Holborn is still visible in the south aisle near the vault. If Jane continued along this path, she would have come to a wicket gate at the south-east corner of the churchyard. There was then a 56 Op. cit. supra (note 53). 74 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM Fig. 8. Sketch of the east end of the chancel in c. 1865. descent of fourteen steps to the lane that led down to the river. This area was described as 'very low and often so dirty as to be hardly passable' in 1865 when a new causeway was built to the modem road. A fine watercolour of this area in 1839 with the church behind, however, shows that it was most attractive in the summer. In 1830, after the new main road was built the lane was moved south, and some ten or more years later the semi-detached pair of cottages were built here by Edward Knight (Fig. 3). In the gardens of these cottages (to the north-west) were apparently found some graves of the earlier (larger) churchyard, and in the south-west corner of the old churchyard there was an old stable. If Jane walked back to Godmersham Park up the old main road (Fig. 2), she would have passed first on her right the great barn and thirteenth-century Court Lodge ( called 'Godmersham Priory' at this time). Here lived Mr and Mrs Richard Coleman and their children 75 - \- ., ,. -􀀒- - ·-··7--;;.., . 􀀓-· 􀀇-::?- £:..:==--;::::> ;,;;:::::::;;r -- / . -✓- I _, .. , • - i r . , . Fig. 9. Sketch of the south side of the chancel in c. 1865. The monuments, which are in a different place in the restored church are those to Richard Mun (right) and the Rev. G. Sherer (left). THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM who Jane often visited (she mentions them and the latest arrival in a letter to Cassandra of 20th February, 1807). After passing the vicarage she would come to the village with the poor-house (for eight people) and school on her right. (This was to become the National School for Boys and Girls in Godmersham after the 1870 Education Act, but was demolished early in the present century). Again Jane often visited the poor here and a letter to Cassandra of 18th October, 1813, from Elizabeth Knight mentions old Mary Crouch and poor Will Amos who lived here for a time. Finally, at the end of the row near the bridge was the house belonging to the Dean and Chapter, which later in the century became the first village post office and was demolished in 1876. It was occupied in Jane's time by Stephen Finn, a shoemaker. In the early nineteenth century there were about 15 other houses here and Godmersham was at this time a community of about 240 people, most of whom lived in the village or in Bilting. There were also, however, outlying houses at Eggerton, Pope Street, and Godmersham Common (now Woodsdale Farm), but it was still a close-knit community of families who had lived here for many years and whose names can be found in the parish registers and on the older gravestones in the churchyard ( often much covered with vegetation). 57 THE LATER NINETEENTH CENTURY The greatest topographical changes in the parish in the midnineteenth century were first the building in 1830 of the new main road from Bilting Green to near Pope Street (the large brick hump-backed bridge below the church was not built until 1842) and then in 1846 the building of the railway line across the parish for the Ashford and Ramsgate branch of the South-Eastern Railway (there has never been a halt at Godmersham). At the same time the houses in Godmersham Street and near the Ford were gradually demolished and new ones were erected in the 'new' Street beyond the main road (houses were still being erected here by the Godmersham Park Estate early in this century). During the same period many far-reaching reforms were taking place in England both at Government and Local Government level 57 The main householders are named in the Godmersham Tithe Apportionments, and the houses can be located on the Tithe Map (1839). See below (note 58). Note also the memorial to Sacree, the Knight family nurse, referred to in several of Jane Austen's letters, outside on the north-east buttress of the church. It is now very worn. 77 TIM TATTON-BROWN and, more relevant here, in the Church of England. The Tithe Commutation Act, which particularly affected the parish, was eventually passed in 1836 after many problems, particularly in Kent. (In the Swing Riots of 1830-31 at least 10 parsons in Kent were physically attacked over tithes). In 1839, a fine tithe map, with its accompanying apportionments, was drawn up for Godmersham.58 This was the second large-scale map for the whole of the parish and compares interestingly with the private map drawn in 1815 for Edward Knight of his estates in the parish (Fig. 2 is a detail from this).59 At the time of the tithe survey the vicar was the newly appointed Rev. Alfred Lyall. In 1846, he was succeeded by the Rev. Thomas Hinxman Gale, who was perhaps the last of the 'old-fashioned' vicars (although both Lyall and then Gale had considerably enlarged the vicarage). He died early in 1864' and on 26th January was buried in the churchyard near the great yew tree. Later that year, after the appointment of the Rev. Walter Field, F.S.A., Archbishop Longley's visitation found the church 'very dil􀁲idated' (the average congregation was 250, with 23 communicants). The energetic Field soon started to draw up a plan to completely rebuild and restore the church and William Butterfield was appointed architect. Work started on 6th March, 1865, and was completed during the summer of 1866. Thanks to Field's comprehensive notes and sketches in the parish register (now deposited at Canterbury Cathedral Library) we know a very great deal about the rebuilding work and ( as has been seen above) the state of the church before the restoration. 61 Unfortunately, to later twentieth-century eyes, the restoration was far too comprehensive. Edward Knight the younger, who had succeeded his father in 1852, was clearly a very generous benefactor, as were many other people whose names are recorded in the register. Much therefore that was ancient was swept away and replaced by tasteless Victorian work. For example, Field describes the box pews as 'high and very inconvenient and unsightly' so they were replaced with many 'modern' pews which still exist (though the pews under the pulpit and in the south transept have now been removed). On the 1866 plan of the restored church Field wrote with great satisfaction: 58 Copy in Canterbury Cathedral Archives. 59 Drawn by James Gouge of Sittingbourne in 1815. This fine map is now at Godmersham Park Estate Office, and I am grateful to Nigel Hale for access to it. 60 Quoted by S.G. Brade-Birks in the Church Magazine of August 1958, op. cit. supra (note 39). 61 Op. cit. supra (note 54). 78 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM 'The Incorporated Church Building Society granted £50 towards reseating this church upon condition that 299 seats, numbered 1 to 51 be reserved for the free use of the inhabitants. The entire area will accommodate 325 persons at the least.' He then added his signature, which is followed by the signatures of the two churchwardens, John Fagg Harvey (the Court Lodge tenant) and Thomas Walker.62 Sadly in the twentieth century the church needs very few of these pews. When work started in 1865 the first job was to lower the ground around much of the church (particularly on the south) because of the damp, and much of this earth was taken to the south-east corner of the churchyard to make a new embankment to the main road. At the same time as this the large eighteenth-century brick 'pews' and the south wall of the church were demolished to allow a brand new aisle and transept to be created. The two 'mean' porches on the west and north were demolished and the doorways there were blocked; a new door and porch were added on the south􀁢west. The door from the nave into the tower was reopened (replacing the door into the chancel) and the upper quoins of the tower were repaired and the whole structure was heightened in brick (but faced in flint) and given a new pyramidal roof and weather-vane. The bells had apparently already been rehung in 1829. A new organ chamber was added on the south-west side of the chancel so that an organ could replace the harmonium. Unfortunately, none of this building work is very distinguished and the Victorian windows and south arcade in oolitic limestone are hard and mechanical when compared with the surviving medieval work. All the roofs were new, except for that over the western two-thirds of the nave, where the fine fifteenth-century crown-post roof was allowed to remain. A particularly unfortunate (and unnecessary) destruction was of the beautiful early fourteenthcentury window on the south-east side of the chancel. It was replaced by a Victorian lancet. Inside the church, apart from the many new pews, the sanctuary was completely reorganised, with a new altar and rails (there were also new choir stalls and a vicar's pew in the chancel) and a new pulpit was erected in the north-east corner of the nave. A new font of Devonshire marble was also given in 1866 by the relatives of the lately deceased vicar Thomas Gale, and some new tiles made by Minton were laid in the chancel. Some years later (in 1875) the rood screen which had been erected by Butterfield in 1866 was painted by A. Gibbs of Bedford Square, London, to a design by Butterfield. 62 Plan now in the Canterbury Cathedral Archives with the parish records. 79 TIM TATTON-BROWN On 24th August, 1866, a very grand rededication took place, at which the Archbishop 'gave the sermon'. There was a procession of 40 clergy and a choir of 60, and the collection for the restoration fund raised £113. (The total cost of the restoration work was £1,830). After the service a dinner was held in a tent in Vicarage Field, and the chair was taken by Edward Knight. This was the only occasion when a train was said to have stopped officially at Godmersham. In 1870, Challock finally ceased to be a chapel to Godmersham and became a separate parish with its own vicar. Each vicar was then paid £250 per annum by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. By this time also the vicarage at Godmersham had reached its present size, after many enlargements in the previous thirty years. Two rooms were added on the north-east and south-east sides in 1839 and then £1,400 was· spent on many improvements in the 1840s. These included new carriageways and drive, extra stables and a coach-house. In 1864, a new dressing-room was added at the north-west corner, followed by a new porch in 1869.63 The stone wall on the south of the property is still clearly inscribed 'VICAR'S WALL 1866' at either end. Few other changes took place in the church in the late nineteenth century though new stained glass was inserted into some of the windows. The mediocre glass in the three eastern lancets designed by Gibbs had been put in in 1866 as a memorial to Edward Knight and his wife Elizabeth (she had died nearly sixty years earlier) and another lancet in the middle of the new south aisle was also decorated with glass by Gibbs, in memory of Anne Field 'most dear sister', who had died 16th April, 1867. She was presumably the vicar's sister. Finally, in the 1880s, the west window of the south aisle was given in memory of John Fagg and Martha Harvey, by their children (he died 8th February, 1882, aged 79, and she on 18th December, 1875, aged 66) 'more than forty years inhabitants of this parish'. The Harveys were the inhabitants of the Court Lodge and their graves as well as those of some of their children, are appropriately enough close to the gate in the wall leading to the Court Lodge. THE TWENTIETH CENTURY Most of the great changes of this century have passed Godmersham by, and the population of the parish (particularly the church-going population) has rather sadly declined over the last eighty or so years, like so many other rural parishes in England. The great house, 63 There are also notes on the vicarage in the parish records. 80 THE CHURCH OF ST. LAURENCE, GODMERSHAM Godmersham Park, has however, continued as a 'great house', though not with the Knight family, who sold up and moved back to Chawton in Hampshire. John Cunliffe Lister Kay, who bought the house from them, is buried in a special plot surrounded by iron railings immediately east of the chancel (he died in 1902), and Robert Tritton who bought Godmersham Park in 1935 (and died in 1957) is near the south porch. His widow, Elsie, who died as recently as 1983, aged 96, also had no direct heirs and the house has now been bought by John Sunley who, like his predecessors at the Park, continues to be a benefactor of the church. Most vicars in the early twentieth century stayed for only a few years before moving on, until Dr S.G. Brade-Birks arrived in 1930 and stayed for 47 years, until his retirement in 1977. After the last war Crundale was also brought under Dr Brade-Birks's care, and this distinguished scientist (who was also a lecturer at Wye College) was greatly loved in the parish. Sadly, too, in recent years the parish has been joined with others (very hard work for the later twentiethcentury incumbents) and the vicarage has been sold off into private hands. There is still, however, a devoted local community at Godmersham and though it is only small in size it continues to use and love its ancient parish church, now nearing its 1,000th birthday. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I am extremely grateful to Mrs Margaret Sparks, Dr Nigel Ramsay, Professor Bryan Keith-Lucas and Mr Nigel Yates for reading and commenting on an earlier draft of this paper. Dr Ramsay also gave me much help with the thirteenth- and fourteenth-century material in the Cathedral archives. The new plan was kindly drawn for me by John Bowen. I am also grateful to the vicar and churchwardens of Godmersham for permission to publish the sketches and drawings in their records, and to Miss Anne Oakley for access to these. 81