MAIDSTONE GENEVA
AN OLD MAIDSTONE INDUSTRY
By JOHN W. BRIDGE, F.S.A.
The Hand-Writing upon the Wall, a caricature in colour, pubhshed by
James Gilhay in 1803, depicts Napoleon and his wife, Josephine, sitting
at a table with, members of theh court, enjoying the spoils of England
after the " invasion " by the French. A hand has written " Mene,
mene, tekel, upharsin " on the wah, and the King's crown is outweighing
Despotism to a cry of " Vive le Roi ".
Among the viands and wines shown on the table are the Bank of
England, St. James's, The Tower of London, together with the Roast
Beef of old England, Maraschino, and some red liquor in a bottle labelled
" Maidstone ". The Maraschino, a liqueur made from the smah black
marasca cherries, was manufactured in England at this time, and might
have been the forerunner of Maidstone's famous Cherry Brandy, as
according to Walter Rowles' " Kentish Chronologer " of 1807, cherries
were first planted at Teynham in Kent by Richard Haynes in 1520.
Also, Evelyn records that " I t was by the plain industry of one, Harris
(a fruiterer to Henry VIII) that the fields and environs of about 30
towns in Kent only, were planted with fruit to the universal'benefit and
general improvement of that County to this day."
• The bottle labehed " Maidstone", however, was obviously
intended to represent the well-known Maidstone Geneva, which was a
very popular gin made in Maidstone at this time. If the hquor in the
bottle had not been coloured, the bottle would appear to be empty, as
the gin was colourless.
That this gin was exported to France is suggested by a second
caricature in the writer's possession, by Woodward, engraved by
Cruikshanks, and pubhshed by T. Tegg of Cheapside on 27th January,
1807.
The title is The Giant Commerce overwhelming the Pigmy Blockade.
It shows John Buh throwing various goods of Enghsh manufacture
across the Enghsh Channel to France, while he exclaims " Blockade my
Country, indeed! I'll shew you the Power of Commerce—take that, and
that, and then to Breakfast with what appetite you may." Napoleon
replies " Pray, Mr. Commerce, don't overwhelm me, and I whl take off
de Grande Blockade of Old England." The exports being thrown over
to France include Fleecy Hosiery, Worcestershire Porcelain, Wedgewood
Ware, Woodstock Gloves, Printed Calico, Leather, Derby Porcelain,
79
MAIDSTONE GENEVA
Bhmingham Buttons, Wool, British Sphits, Sugar, Block Tin, Patent
Coffins, London Porter, Staffordshire Ware, Norwich Shawls, Pig Iron,
Cutlery, Combs, Shears, .and a barrel marked " Maidstone Geneva ".
This blockade was a scheme of Napoleon to ruin Great Britain
through her commercial trade, and was known as the Continental
System, by which he attempted to exclude British goods from
continental ports.
His Berlin Decree of 21st November, 1806, prohibited Spain, Italy,
Holland and ah French territory from dhect or indirect commerce
with Great Britain.
The British Order in Council of 7th January, 1807, countered this
by forbidding ah vessels, under pain of capture, from trading with any
French port, or ports under the influence of France. Napoleon's scheme
proved a failure, and even at the time when he was boasting of having
struck a mortal blow, his own armies were being clothed from Leeds and
Northampton.
Hasted writes in his History of Kent, " There has been within these
few years a distillery erected and carried on here (Maidstone) to a very
large extent, by Mr. George Bishop, from which is produced the wellknown
Maidstone Geneva, being of such a magnitude that no less than
seven hundred hogs are kept from the surplus of the grains from it."
These hogs were known as " squeakers " and were sometimes used to
influence voters at elections. Geneva has no connection with a place
of that name. It should be spelt with a smah " g " as it comes from
the Dutch genever, a corruption of the French genievre, from the Latin
juniperus = juniper, the berries of which were used for flavouring.
The word " Gin " is a contraction of " geneva ", and Geneverette
is a continental wine made from wild fruits, flavoured with juniper.
Gin is an alcoholic liquor obtained from grain and molasses. The
raw alcohol obtained from this source is re-distilled, then flavoured with
the necessary material which varies with the brand, quahty, etc., and
re-distilled. It is flavoured with a large number of substances, such as
angehca root, calamus root, sweet fennel, juniper, cinnamon, hquorice,
etc. It is now usuahy sold at "70 proof", which is 30 "under proof",
and it may not be sold below 35 " under proof ". When pure, it should
be perfectly clear and colourless. Sweetened gin is produced by the
addition of smah quantities of pure sugar syrup added to the liquor.
Hohands gin is a Dutch brand very largely imported into Great Britain.
I t is obtained from barley malt and is usuahy flavoured with juniper.
The origin of Proof Spirit goes back to the Middle Ages, when
Proof Spirit was that mixture of pure alcohol and water, which when
mixed with gunpowder, burned with a steady flame, and did not either
explode, which was overproof, or extinguish, whioh was underproof.
In turn, Excise Officers, first a Mr. Clarke in the middle of the eighteenth
80
PLATE I
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THE TRADE CARD OF GEORGE BISHOP
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" The Hand-Writing upon the WaU
By Gillray, 1803.
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The Giant Commerce overwhelming the Pigmy Blockade '
By Woodward, 1807.
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5-
MAIDSTONE GENEVA
century, and then a Mr. Sikes in 1816 invented an instrument, which
by means of tables, could be more scientific than the " Gunpowder
test ". Both, however, used as Proof what was thought to be Proof at
the time and as a result of this, the original test was used.
Proof sphit is defined as such sphit as at the temperature of 51°
Fahrenheit shah weigh twelve, thhteenths of an equal measure of
distihed water. Application of this definition shows that Sphit of
Proof strength contains very nearly equal weights of pure alcohol and
water. ••
The proportions required to give Proof sphit are :
By weight. Pure alcohol 49-28"\ , „.0 ^ , , .,
Water ° 5 0 ; 7 2 } at 60° Fahrenheit.
By volume the figures are pure alcohol 57.1 and water 46 • 7. Owing
to the contraction in bulk, accompanied by a rise in temperature which
takes place on mixing these figures for volume whl give 100. Addition
or reduction of the amounts of water as given above wih give a mixture
termed Under Proof or Over Proof, respectively. Thus 30 under proof
means that 100 volumes contains 70 volumes of the proof sphit as
defined by law. Thirty over proof means that 100 volumes of the 30
over proof hquid contain enough pure alcohol to make, by the addition
of more water, a quantity of 130 volumes of proof sphit. In practice,
the quantity of proof sphit in any mixture of pure alcohol and water is
ascertained by the hydrometer invented by the Mr. Sikes referred to,
using specific gravity tables in conjunction with the temperature of the
mixture. It is on the proof sphit that ah Customs and Excise duties
are based. It is interesting to see that the normal gin and whisky sold
to-day at 70 proof contains more water than pure alcohol.
The great popularity of Maidstone gin was because of its extra
strength, it being made under a special Act of Parhament which allowed
this. It was 83 proof, 13 per cent, stronger than the gin of to-day.
Excise duty was levied, based on the amount of sphit distilled
from a given weight of " malt or other corn, including the bran thereof ",
viz. 112 lb. avoirdupois which produced 120 gals, of " wash " or " wort "
(the infusion of malt before fermentation) was charged " Two pounds,
twelve shillings and fourpence ". If 30 gals, of the " wash ", when
disthled by the Officer of the Excise, was found to produce " more than
2 | gal. of sphits at the strength of one in six under Hydrometer Proof ",
the duty charged was one shilling and fivepence. Additional duty was
to be paid on the above, viz, 15s. and 6d. respectively unth 12 months
after " the Ratification of the Definitive Treaty of Peace ".
The writer has some of the original Maidstone gin made by George
Bishop well over 100 years ago. It is crystal clear, colourless, and stih
very potent.
81
o
MAIDSTONE GENEVA
The effect of excessive gin-drinking is indicated by the following
" Epitaph on a Gin-Drinker ".
" Hah burnt alive ! beneath this Dung-hill lies
A Wretch, whose memory the Sage despise.
Her Brain all Tumult, ragged her Attire ;
The Sport of Boys, when wallowing in the Mhe,
Life did, to her, as a wild Tempest seem ;
And Death, as sinking to a horrid Dream.
Hence learn, ye Brutes, who reel in human Shape,
To you superior is the grinning Ape ;
For Nature's wise Impulses they'll pursue,
Whhst each dread Start of Frenzy governs you."
From Clement Taylor Smythe, writing in 1832, and from J. M.
Russell in his History of Maidstone, 1881, we learn that a distillery for
the making of Hollands gin was established in Maidstone by George
Bishop, a native of the town. He had for several years conducted a
distihery in Hohand, and after acquiring the art of distilling the
celebrated Schiedam, he returned to England with the intention of
setting up a distihery in Maidstone. Finding that there were laws in
existence which would interfere materially with the needful operations,
he petitioned the Legislature for an Act of Parhament to enable him to
carry out his project, the realization of which, he pointed out, would
tend to prevent smuggling by rendering Hollands a home produce.
After much opposition, particularly by the Chancellor of the Exchequer
in the House of Commons, an Act of Parhament was obtained. Its
subsequent importance, however, was so great, that eight other Acts
were passed at different times, to continue and amend the powers which
had been granted (See 39 Geo. III. Cap. 105, etc.). The demand for
this sphit was very large, and it became in a short space of time a
principal article of sale in nearly every town and village in the country.
A large brick building with yards and other premises was erected on the
south side of Bank Street, near the Swan Inn and adjoining the old
Kentish Bank of Messrs. Brenchley & Co., and by the year 1789 the
disthlery was in full operation. Maidstone Hollands gin was soon in
great demand. When the originator died, the concern was left in the
hands of his relatives, Sh William Bishop, George Bishop, and Argles
Bishop, whose affairs got into confusion through extravagance and
mismanagement, and in 1818, the distihery was sold. It was then
carried on by the purchasers under the management of George Bishop
for about a year, when in consequence of an application made by Argles
Bishop to carry on, under the same powers, an opposition distihery
which he had set up in premises in St. Peter Street, which have since
become part of the Medway Brewery, the Excise took the opportunity
of putting an end to both concerns, on the plea that the original disthlery
82
MAIDSTONE GENEVA
having changed hands, the Act was inoperative. The premises behind
Bank Street were afterwards converted into a steam corn-mih, shown
as a " fiour-mih " on an old map of Maidstone. The buhding, which
was destroyed in 1926, can be seen in a view of Maidstone, pubhshed in
Kent's Capital in 1898. Thomas Grant of Maidstone issued a handbih
in 1857, a copy of which is in the Maidstone Museum, in which he gives
the history of the manufacture of gin, based on the foregoing, to which
he adds : " So highly was the gin esteemed, and the loss of it felt, that
hundreds of Sphit Merchants, for many years after, professed to have
a remnant; and even to this date there are, as most persons can testify,
numerous old pubhc houses in London with " MAIDSTONE GIN " in
large characters over theh doors. In 1838 the father of the present
proprietor began to distil this gin at Dover, and the celebrity it has
again obtained since that period has induced the proprietor to erect a
new distillery at Maidstone with ah the improvements of modern times,
including steam power. The chief recommendations in favour of this
gin, in addition to its peculiarity of flavour are primarily, ITS WHOLESOMENESS—
The pecuhar care used in its first distillation from the
grain, and the fact that it reaches the consumer in a state of genuine
purity, are probably among the reasons why it agrees with the most
delicate constitutions, and is generally admitted by medical men to be
far more wholesome than ordinary gin. Secondly, ITS CHEAPNESS—
for although nominally it is a trifle dearer than the BEST Common Gin,
it is so much stronger in flavour, that for grog, httle more than hah the
usual quantity is required. The price some time back lowered from 3s.
to 2s. 8d. per bottle. It can be procured of most Sphit Merchants and
Innkeepers throughout the Kingdom. The price is 14s. 6d. per gallon,
or in bottles neatly labelled, at 2s. 8d. bottle included, 32s. per dozen,
and to insure it being genuine, the corks are branded thus MAIDSTONE
DISTILLERY. Where no agents are appointed, famhies can be
supplied direct from the Disthlery, in quantities not less than Two
Gallons, or One Dozen Carriage paid to London or any Station on the
South-eastern North Kent Rahways. P.O. Orders, and correspondence
to be addressed to " THOMAS GRANT, Disthlery Maidstone."
In the Universal British Directory of 1791, George Bishop is
mentioned as a Justice of the Peace, Sir Wilham Bishop, Bart., as a
Jurat, and George Bishop & Co., as malt-distillers.
George Bishop was Mayor of Maidstone in 1777 and 1786, and Sir
Wilham Bishop in 1778 and 1787. Sh Wilham Bishop, Knight, distiller,
who was knighted during his mayoralty by George III, hved in a house
" standing back from the street, nearly opposite the Judges' Lodgings
in Lower Stone Street ". He died in 1817 aged 83.
The following notices which are in the Maidstone Museum, giving
the prices of sphits, are interesting :
83
MAIDSTONE GENEVA
MAIDSTONE HOLLANDS
Equal to any Imported:
Also best flavoured ENGLISH GIN, and fine, pure, clean
SPIRITS that whl mix with any Liquor in large Proportions
without hurting the Flavours, and the best Wine Brandy Coniac
flavour : Also CLEAN SPIRITS for the use of Apothecaries.
By GEORGE BISHOP
at his Disthlery, Maidstone : and his warehouse :
No. 2. RUSSIA COURT, Leadenhall Street, London.
Who only is authorised by Parliament.
No. 1. Maidstone Hollands at per gallon 5s. 9d.
No. 2. Ditto Cordial Gin. „ „ 5s. 6d.
No. 3. Ditto best flavoured Enghsh Gin „ 5s. 6d.
No. 4. Ditto Clean Sphits „ 5s. 6d.
No. 5. Ditto best Wine Brandy „ 6s. 6d.
N.B. Sold at the lawful strength, he being allowed by Law to sell
Sphits stronger than any other Person.
A printed notice was sent to customers, probably because of the war
conditions at that time, as follows :
Maidstone Disthlery, June 20th. 1795.
Sh, We are sorry to say, there is a certainty of the Distilleries in
England being stopped in six months—there is no stock of Spirits,
and it is impossible for us to quote any prices at present. We are,
Sh, Your obedient Servants,
Geo. Bishop and Co.
After this prices went up, and the following printed notices were
sent to customers ordering gin.
Maidstone.
Sh, Your favour dated . . . came safe to hand, ordering . . . .
Puncheon of Hollands ; we have thought it proper to advise you
the present price before we forward the same, which is
7s. Od. per Gallon Money.
7s. 2d. Ditto. 2 months,
and we wait your further directions most respectfully.
Sh, Your obedient Servants,
Geo. Bishop and Co.
Later, this same notice was used, with the prices altered to 7s. 4d.
and 7s. 6d. respectively.
The sale of Sphits by the Maidstone Disthlery was discontinued
about 1910, thus terminating the production of a commodity for which
Maidstone was famous during the greater part of one hundred and fifty
years.
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